The Dales Way Day Six

The Dales Way 2009
Day Six: 6th June 2009.
Weather: Overcast and fine rain after lunch, followed by real rain when we finished drenching later in the day.
Kendal to Bowness-on-Windermere, then up to the station: 14.4 miles on SatMap Active 10 GPS

After the drag of the walk down into Kendal last night, I couldn’t face the walk back up through the town centre and the traffic, so we cheated today and got a taxi back up the A6 to Billy’s tea shop – but at least we didn’t miss out any of the route. I’m glad we did because we met two delightful ladies from Harrogate, who had a guide book but were walking the guide back to front. They were only doing three days before being picked up by hubbies. But what fun – I wished they were walking our way. They told us that they had stayed at Burneside last night and were appalled at the state of their accommodation. They took their fish and chips back to their room to ‘improve the smell’, and then refused to pay the rate for the room – good for them. They recounted the tacky carpet curling back at the edges, mould on the wall, and the peeling wallpaper – I guess Kendal wasn’t such a bad choice after all. What a great pair, but we didn’t delay them too long, as they had a long day, the forecast was rubbish, and I feared for their wellbeing. A look to the sky confirmed that the leading edge of the weather was on its way to us and it was only a matter of time before we got wet today.


A bright enough start to the day


The route ahead to Kendal


Meadows at Burneside

We continued through the freshly cut hay fields following a dark green path against the newly cut yellow hay. Passing by Sprint Mill just before Burneside was a wonderful wobbly building and we wondered how the windows managed to stay put without breaking. Shortly after this was the thinnest style\gate I had passed through for a long time. Anyone with beefy legs should watch out here as it is definitely a squeeze through. A little way along the road we passed Burneside Hall, now a farm but it looks like the remains of a Pele tower are in its grounds in a very dilapidated state. We reached the village which only has the one place for accommodation – The Jolly Angler (as far as I know). That’s strange really as it has a large paper mill, but stranger still is the post office that is tagged on to the side of the parish church. After popping into the local store for our sandwiches and Hula Hoops, and some sweeties we returned to the riverbank and this time it was the River Kent and its reward to me was the sighting of a Green Woodpecker just past another small hamlet of Bowston.


The post office tagged on the side of the church


The River Kent


The falls and old mill building at Cowan Head


Old walls and gateposts

To the north west of the village is the River Kent that narrows through some rapids at Cowan Head and between old mill buildings that have been converted to flats – probably holiday or retirement flats. It has its own golf course - nice. From here on we were truly in the Lake District and the unmistakable landscape of craggy bluffs here and there. It was a little hillier than yesterday but the gradients were still gentle, as we passed through some very old field boundaries with massive stone gate posts. To the north the higher fells eventually come into view, and in true Lakeland style it started to spit and spot, not too heavy but a persistent drop. So for the first time in 5 ½ days it was on with the waterproofs, but that didn’t stop the birds singing and it was still a delight to be out and about. As we approached Stavely there were more glorious meadows to walk through, with the buzzing bees still working away busily. We passed through the edge of Stavely and under the railway line before starting to head uphill across the pasture and on a newly laid farm track at New Hall. As we reached the brow of a hill we found an empty barn to eat our sandwiches in the dry – it was full of cow dung, but it was dry and the rain although light was more persistent.


Meadows at Stavely


Getting closer to the fells


And finally it started to rain

I stood in the doorway and knew the journey was nearly complete, always a thought provoking moment – enjoyment of the walk nearly done and thoughts about where next? On from the barn we wandered along the road and up the only real climb of the day to walk across sheep grazed fields to the west. The big hills were to our right shrouded in mist with cloud pouring over their summits – it wasn’t going to get any dryer from where we were, and Windermere was still out of sight over the brow of the next ridge or two. The route now was along typical Lakeland fields and lanes – always enjoyable whatever the weather thrown at you, the fells getting closer and craggier as we progressed. One thing I noticed today that where some of the drystone walls have protruding stones the sheep have used them as an itching post. They have been rubbed smooth over the years – have a look and you will see many of them around. One in particular has been stained a shade of turquoise by constant use, presumably after they have just been tupped and the paint has rubbed off.


The rhythm of the day –up and down field paths


Happy as a pig in…..


True Lakeland weather


The higher fells to the north


Approaching Windermere soon


Drystone walling the traditional way


Nearly at Windermere now

About 3 miles from the end of the walk we came across another tea room at Hagg End, and as they had the decency to build this place for walkers, we thought it only fair that we should have a cuppa. As we approached the farm (they have B&B I believe) there was a field with a couple of large pigs laid flat out in the shelter from the rain – their house was the back of an old pickup truck or van. Suitably refreshed we had a spring in our collective steps as we got ever closer to Bowness-on-Windermere. We stopped and had a chat with a dry stone waller, who had started the day in a T-shirt, and was now in full winter gear. The high fells were now in full view or what we could see of them, with low cloud down in the valley and higher up the slopes the clouds were funneling down to lower ground – very dramatic in places and I stopped and stared for a while, and a little further on our final surprise of the trip was to watch 3 Red Deer leaping over a wall and galloping off through the fields to a small copse. From there on it was down through the fields passing a Western Skunk Cabbage with information label attached – apparently they can generate their own heat, so when it had been snowing earlier in the year the ground around this plant was clear, it looked like a banana tree with no trunk. We walked over a final brow of a hill and Lake Windermere came into view and so did the slate bench with its plaque – ‘for those that walk The Dales Way’. As Mrs RP sat down for a picture the heavens opened and I really couldn’t get a dry shot – I think she was quite pleased with herself though.


The bench at the end of the trail


And down to the shore to dip the boots

Down into Bowness-on-Windermere by the back lanes we hit the crowds of tourists and dipped the boots by the lakeside – much to the many Japanese’s enjoyment. That was it – a brilliant week in great weather amongst some of the most beautiful landscapes in England. All that was left was a walk to Windermere to collect the bags, and catch the train home. I picked up the bags from the baggage drop at Daryl’s Café and didn’t fancy a cuppa at this greasy spoon – though the weather didn’t really show it at its best. Then it was a short stumble along the road to the station and finally into the dry to wait for our train home – no stops and no changes. One last thing before I leave you in peace – it was a bit chilly on the train so the conductor turned the heater on. Now that would have been ok normally, but when someone has been walking through sheep droppings all day the smell soon wafted through the carriages – it made me smile, but not the townies though ha ha.

The Dales Way Day Five

The Dales Way 2009
Day Five: 5th June 2009.
Weather: Overcast and cool, but dry once more.
Sedbergh to Kendal: 18.1 miles on SatMap Active 10 GPS – boy am I going to pay for this one – oops!

Day five dawned as a grey day, and it stayed grey all day long, with a very occasional spot of sunshine – but most importantly it was dry. We had a good breakfast with good service and good food after an excellent night in The Dalesman Inn. Our room was superb – big and spacious, with the only bad note being in the bathroom where the local double-decker buses could stare in if they wanted to! I knew this was going to be a long day because we were staying in Kendal (my one mistake of the whole week) which is a few miles off the Dales Way path. The initial way back to the Dales Way would have been to walk back out of town down the hill to the bridge near Millthrop and then loop around the river before cutting north to join the River Lune. To cut some mileage off I had planned to walk along the course of an old railway track but unfortunately this option wasn’t an option, and nor was a footpath that was on the map – it now has houses built across it – disgraceful of the planners to let this go through. So that added some distance to my shortened route, but it was still interesting walking. Unfortunately we had to wander along the main road out of Sedbergh which was busy enough – however there were some roadwork’s which reduced the speed of the passing traffic enough to make it feel a bit safer. But I wouldn’t recommend this way on a busy wet day, far better to follow the route properly and stay close to the path for your B&B rather than the long haul into Kendal (or call a taxi). But every cloud and all that jazz – we had a bonus in that we got to see a small disused chapel of St Leonard’s near Ingmire Hall which is maintained by the church commission. It had a conservatory roof which was odd, and also some lovely stained glass windows – a good start to the day, and they came out quite nicely on the pictures.


One of the stained glass windows at St Leonard’s church


The old railway line crossed these fields

A short walk down the road returned us to the Dales Way and from Lincolns Inn Bridge our route turned north and followed the River Lune for the next few miles until we reached the Crook of Lune Bridge. We passed by the Lune viaduct with the mid span made of metal – there was no bed to the track so we couldn’t have walked there anyway. Mrs RP was feeling a bit fed up early on, and a bit weary – it was due to 4 people following us close behind and she didn’t like it! But once I’d had a few more photo stops, it sorted that problem out. There were several groups of walkers here, so we hung back to get some clear ground ahead for Mrs RP, and I didn’t mind as I could observe the birdlife flitting in and around the river – the highlight was a brief glimpse of a Kingfisher making its way along the far bank, and the wonderful sound of a Song Thrush serenading us from very close by. Normally I would have found a spot to sit down and waited for the Kingfisher to return, and as long as you are fairly still that generally happens. It was years before I actually saw my first Kingfisher, and then it was actually on the local golf course in suburbia – they are beautiful colours though with the bright orange breast.


The lune viaduct


More meadows as we move away from Sedbergh


The Howgills hove into view

The sight of the Kingfisher made my day really, along with plenty of Dippers, a Heron or two and a Buzzard that came squawking close by – it must have had a nest in the proximity because it came back to harry the groups behind us as well. The path wanders away from the banks of the Lune for a mile and a bit and we walked across some meadows, much pasture and a few bullocks thrown in. It then drops down to the river after Hole House where the path passes through the courtyard of these rental properties – too near the M6 for me. At this point we met a man walking his small terrier by the river bank. He told us he had some small stones with him and when the dog barked at people, he threw a pebble to the ground close to the dog to stop him barking. It was fairly effective though, and I asked him what the brick was for? ‘It’s in case he bites anyone’ – I think he was joking though, probably. It was very quiet here and we couldn’t see much of the river due to the tree cover, but the hum of the M6 was getting closer all the time. The Howgills (christened The Horrible Howgills by Mrs RP – as it always seems to be raining when she drives past on the M6) were in view for a long time today, and they were attracting their usual portion of the wet stuff as we went by. There was no peace for the fish and birds at the Crook of Lune Bridge as a young family were bombarding the river with large stones and having a whale of a time – maybe the terrier had walked past here and was struck silent? From the Crook of Lune Bridge we walked under another viaduct and the noise from the M6 became ever more intrusive.


A peaceful River Lune


The Crook of Lune Bridge


The Lowgill viaduct

The Lowgill viaduct was made up of big sandstone bridges in a similar style to all the other viaducts along the way, and behind it the Howgills were looking wet and miserable. Due to not paying attention as we walked through Lowgill I missed the turn off to a path, and we ended up walking parallel to the M6 for the next mile so it was a little noisier than it should have been – but again an added bonus was the wild flowers in the verges, and a group of noisy Black Headed Gulls vying for position in a newly mown field. The path crosses the M6 by a footbridge which some wag has painted a dashed white line along the middle – it’s all of 3ft wide. As we crossed the bridge the farm beyond is a bit of a blot, but has recycled a lot of the old M6 road signs as fence work. But the noise didn’t last too long and once we were away from the M6 the Eastern Lakeland Fells began to appear in the distance. There are also some glacial erratics of Shap Granite lying around the fields and path edges – they have a very distinct mineralogy – with pink crystals of Feldspar – and for sure they didn’t travel down the motorway. From here on walking was a pleasure and there was a gentle rhythm to the ups and downs of the landscape, crossing fields, farm tracks, and some minor roads.


Looking back to the Howgills


And forward to the Lakeland Fells


Goodbye Howgills


The thin green line

A lot of the hay meadows had been cut, revealing a bright green path across the fields – no need to look at the map for the way here. After about 4 miles from the M6 the next stop along the way was Black Moss Tarn which looked resplendent with lots of yellow flag Iris fringing the water, with the threatening skies above the Howgills beyond. A nice peaceful spot to have a snack, and from here we started to get better views of the Lakeland Fells, all looking a tad higher than where we were. From the tarn the route hits a bit of road work and passes by a few farms with lots of yapping small dogs – I should have had a pebble or two – but I had my walking stick / cow stick / dog stick with me and he was kept at arm’s length while we slipped through a gate. We crossed the A6 at Burton House and for most people’s schedule it would have been on to Burneside (I think the only B&B was fully booked when I tried). But for us it was time to depart the Dales Way and make our way down to Kendal along as many paths as I could find – not many as it turned out, and it is never nice to finish a day’s walk along pavements. But there was one more highlight before leaving the path and that was Billy’s Tea room at the farm of Burton House. The kids here have all their own pet animals and to help them pay for the feed they have set up a little tea room in a shed – you just make a donation to help them along. It was fun sat there a while with all the chickens pecking at my boots and the pig snuffling about my rucksack, a welcome stop as well if it was throwing it down.


The gently undulating landscape


And pleasant farm lanes


I liked the sky above the horizon


Looking gloomier for tomorrow


Black Moss Tarn – a fine spot for a rest


More grey skies ahead

After this break was the long trudge into Kendal, through a busy town centre, where my chosen hotel was nothing like I expected and the restaurant we ate in wasn’t brilliant either – but then again we have walked for 5 days without a spot of rain! But….it looked ominously dark for the next day’s walk to the end of the trail.



Ooh err

The Dales Way Day Four

The Dales Way 2009
Day Four: 3rd June 2009.
Weather: A mixed day of weather, mainly sunny but colder than the last few days.
Ribblehead Station Hotel to Sedbergh: 17.5 miles on SatMap Active 10 GPS

Over breakfast – a bit hit and miss, and watch out for the toaster – we discussed the options for the day for Mrs RP. I thought that the long day would detract from her enjoyment of this walk and we tried to figure out ways to cut the mileage for her. We looked at catching the train to Dent and waiting for me to catch up – until we realised that the actual station is a good 6 miles from Dent anyway. There wasn’t a bus timetable available, so we decided (that’s the royal we by the way) that the best option was a taxi from Dent to Sedbergh, which left the last 6 miles for me to walk. So after settling up the bill we walked out into the day, a little cooler than yesterday and a bit overcast – almost perfect for walking actually and after 4 days in the sun my legs look like a pint of Guiness in reverse. There is a weather forecasting stone outside the Station Hotel, a very amusing start to the day. The walk down the road to get back to the Dales Way was easier than last night, but it was a boring bit of roadwork but not without some interest on the route. The tea van was in the lay-by but he was out walking his dog, leaving any customer to fend for themselves – an interesting concept but not very profitable. As we turned off the road we watched in horror as a Shepherd moved his flock along the road, uphill to a corner – but thankfully the first car around the bend managed to come to a halt just in time. The receding views behind us were of Ingleborough, the viaduct, Whernside, the Pennine Way snaking away, and to our right a distant Pen-y-Ghent.


Ingleborough receding into the distance


Pen-Y-Ghent looking a long way away

We had good views of all three peaks, and with the high cloud we were in and out of the sun for most of the day. We quickly gained height up over Blea Moor where 6000 navvies were stationed to build the stations and viaduct of Ribblehead, Bleamoor tunnel and Dent Head viaduct. I believe they just moved along as they progressed. The first couple of miles after leaving the road were up over the moors, dropping down into little gullies and up again. Typical Pennine scenery, but it was dry and we were thankful for that, with a well defined path and no bogs to speak of. It was colder today but good conditions for walking, the skylarks were singing and the buzzards were soaring – but the jets overhead were making a hell of a din, manoeuvering in tight circles.


Up over the moors


The view down over the Dale Head viaduct to Dentdale


The old packhorse bridge below the viaduct

Once we were over Blea Moor it was back on the road for another few miles, and the views over Dent Dale opened up. The first thing we saw was the Dent Head – a light spot amongst the moorland. As we passed by under the Dale Head viaduct there is a beautiful old packhorse bridge spanning a small stream, and it looks so incongruous sat there under the massive stone arches above. It is in a very verdant setting and would be a good spot for lunch if your schedule allowed it. From the end of the moorland it is about 3 or so miles of quiet country lane to walk down – not my ideal type of walking but it adds to the different aspects of any LDP. We continued along by the river dropping down into Dentdale by the River Dee and I knew there was a pub coming up at Cow Dub. The river flowed shallow this week and it disappears now and again beneath its limestone bedrock, reappearing someway downstream. High above us to the right were many stakes driven into the ground – an old fence line that was built to prevent snow sliding down on to the railway line – they look like a bunch of Red Indians watching out for cowboys passing along the valley below – that would be me then. Further down the road we passed by Artengill viaduct high up to our right side, towering above the valley sides and meadows.




The snow fence high up the valley side

Eventually after passing by several neat dwellings along the road we arrived at Cow Dub where there is a Pub – that would have been a good name for a pub – The Cow Dub Pub. But they called it The Sportsman instead – why? But regardless of its age we made straight for the front door, wondering if it would be open or not. We were the only customers, but the Dentdale bitter was delicious, and it washed down the sandwiches in good style. I was tempted for several more but I thought better of it as I still had a good way to go yet. As Mrs RP was struggling today – a bit of back pain, we asked if there was a bus and were told oh yes – but you’ve missed it. Then we asked when the next one was and she said Saturday (today was Wednesday)! Then I got to thinking while the ladies were gassing – what would happen if you’d waited for the bus and it came along and whistled past because it was full? Or that you’d bent down to tie your shoe laces just before the bus came and didn’t stick your arm out – bugger. I had already decided to put Mrs RP in a taxi at Dent (11 miles along the route) so she could have a longer rest in Sedbergh and she didn’t protest too loudly. After lunch we gently started walking, and a mile further up the road the path leaves the road and starts up a farm lane before once more crossing the meadows. It was about 5 miles to Dent from Cow Dub, but most of it is down in Dentdale proper, and the meadows began to dominate again and it was beautiful in the dappled sunlight – I kept thinking Julie Andrews would be along singing away any minute now.


Looking back up the valley


And the view back down the valley


Beautiful scenery – shame about the jets overhead


Getting closer to Dent


Looking back up the valley from Dent


The memorial to Adam Sedgewick in Dent village

The path meanders up and down the fields and then comes back to the River Dee again before entering Dent. The river disappears often beneath limestone slabs, and the valley was completely dry in places, but it was nice down by the river with lots of birdlife again. I very nearly had a fabulous shot of a Heron, but as I was getting ready to shoot it flew off in a great flap of grey wings – doh. As the afternoon arrived the clouds began to part and the sun came out to play, absolutely perfect for walking now – still chill enough to keep cool, but bright enough to warm the bones. The far distant fells of the Lake District come into view eventually – a faint grey but unmistakable. The approach to Dent is delightful following the river Dee as it meanders across the floodplain, passing by freshly cut fields of hay that gave off that lovely scent of summer. Arriving at the Church Bridge at about 3pm it was a short walk up the cobbled lanes to find a tea room - more refreshment and a taxi for my better half. It was a welcome break and the taxi from Sedbergh arrived on time, so off we both went on our separate ways. The pleasure of the day continued for me as the sun was now shining through and it was probably warmer at 5pm than it was at midday. A brass cast of a fossil set into one of the footbridges served to remind me that Dent was the birthplace of Adam Sedgewick, a pioneer geologist who searched the local area for fossils – he has one or two named after himself. There is a faultline that runs through Dent that separates the Silurian shales and slates to the west from the Carboniferous gritstones and limestones – hence the change of scenery on both sides of the valley.


Next stop is at Sedbergh


The Silurian crags to the south of Dentdale


And a little further on…


And a little further on and on..


Over this hill and then down to Sedbergh


The Howgills appear beyond Sedbergh

The remaining miles to Sedburgh were a delight in the late afternoon sun, initially following the south side of Dentdale – more Shepherd’s, and a steep valley side covered in Bluebells at Rottenbutts Woods. Then it was across the valley at Brackensgill and up and over the last two miles of Long Rigg where the hills ahead beckoned and Sedburgh sat neatly at the base of the horrible Howgills – Mrs RP’s name not mine. There were delightful views back up Dentdale and I took it easy over the last mile, wandering slowly down the hill, savouring the remnants of another wonderfully peaceful day. The approach to Sedbergh was over the River Rawthey and uphill past the Sedbergh School fields – a place with an air of achievement and no doubt a car park full of 4x4’s at the end of term. No rain again and I had a fair old thirst so I was forced into several pints of Black Sheep later on.